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FOOD & DRINK

World-famous Copenhagen restaurant to close after 2024

Noma in Copenhagen, a triple-Michelin starred restaurant once rated as the best place to eat in the world, is to close for an indefinite period after next year and be replaced by a ‘food laboratory’, its owner said.

World-famous Copenhagen restaurant to close after 2024
Copenhagen restaurant Noma in 2020. The triple-Michelin starred establishment is set to close after 2024 and undergo concept redevelopment. Photo: Ida Guldbæk Arentsen/Ritzau Scanpix

Owner and head chef at Noma, Rene Redzepi, told Danish newspaper Berlingske that he planned to close the establishment and that it would not return in its current form.

The Michelin restaurant will therefore close indefinitely from 2025 to make way for a “food laboratory” where new dishes and products would be developed for an online sale concept called Noma Projects, Redzepi told the newspaper.

“It is important to me that Noma is be an enduring factor within ground-breaking food innovation. We will therefore have to remove the restaurant part for a while,” he said.

“We expect it to take somewhere between two and four years for the transformation to be complete. In what for Noma will open again I don’t yet know. But I doubt it will be as a normal restaurant,” he said.

Noma has previously signalled major changes were likely to be forthcoming.

The “food laboratory” will enable larger scale fermentation of raw products by the company’s sales staff, news wire Ritzau writes.

Redzepi told Berlingske he may consider opening the restaurant for a season each year in Copenhagen or another location, possibly abroad.

He said that it was not certain it would ever operate as a restaurant again after the announced closing, however.

The idea for a food lab first occurred to Redzepi during the 2020 closures of restaurants due to the Covid-19 pandemic, he said. At the time, Noma opened a pop-up takeaway burger bar in Copenhagen.

The Danish restaurant has for many years enjoyed a reputation as one of the world’s best and has on several occasions been named top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. It currently has three Michelin stars.

READ ALSO: Star Copenhagen restaurant Noma reinvents cuisine for Danish taste buds

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FOOD & DRINK

Denmark wins prestigious culinary award in global showdown

Denmark's ode to the humble squash helped propel the Nordic nation to victory Monday in prestigious culinary competition the Bocuse d'or, beating host and defending champion France.

Denmark wins prestigious culinary award in global showdown

With foghorns and firecrackers, a passionate Danish crowd cheered on chef Brian Mark Hansen, 41, as he steered Denmark to its third victory in the gastronomy equivalent of the World Cup.

“These Danes are crazy, hey? That’s the Vikings,” said Hansen, a chef in a Michelin-starred restaurant in Copenhagen. “I have dreamed of this for 20 years.”

After national selections in some 60 countries, the two-day final in Lyon pitted 24 chefs against each other in the competition set up by French “Nouvelle Cuisine” pioneer Paul Bocuse in 1983.

Norway came second and Hungary third.

Long known for their hearty meat-and-potatoes fare, Danish chefs have taken the culinary world by storm in recent years, racking up Michelin stars and global awards.

Scandinavian contestants have finished at least in the top three every time in the biennial event going back to 1991.

France has seven titles, but this year chef Nais Pirollet, 25, the only woman in the competition, finished fifth.

“There is no sadness, it is a victory to be here,” she said.

Training for the competition is intense, “a bit like a fighter pilot or Formula 1 driver,” said last year’s winner Davy Tissot, president of the 2023 jury.

Finland’s 25-year-old candidate Johan Kurkela has been known to train for 10 hours straight locked in a basement. Meanwhile, Pirollet trained daily for five-and-a-half hours nonstop to replicate competition conditions.

Denmark got the most jury votes in both categories.

The first, “Feed the kids,” aimed to highlight the importance of nutrition in children’s diets, using the squash.

From butternut to spaghetti squash, seeds and all, the chefs had to use their imagination to highlight the humble dish — a fruit often mistaken for a vegetable — resulting in an explosion of orange creations.

Simplicity “is the hardest thing to do,” said Tissot.

“I want to taste the squash. I also wanted to be transported into a universe which I might not know,” said three-star chef Dominique Crenn, honorary president of the grand final.

For the main dish, the chefs had to mesmerise with monkfish, pulling out all the stops when it came to presentation.

Mauritian chef Kritesh Halkory — one of only two candidates from Africa — used a massive sea urchin shell as a gravy boat.

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