SHARE
COPY LINK
OPINION

EXPAT

How being an expat in Copenhagen changed

Expat blogger Melanie Haynes has been living in the Danish capital for nearly eight years and has seen her new home change for the better during that time.

How being an expat in Copenhagen changed
The development of Ørestad is one of the city's biggest changes. Photo: Nicolai Perjesi/VisitDenmark
I first moved to Copenhagen from the UK in early 2008 and I loved the city as soon as we arrived. I still do. But I am very much aware of how my expat experience back then varies so much from experiences now.
 
Social media has made being an expat easier and less lonely. Photo: Colourbox
Social media has made being an expat easier and less lonely. Photo: Colourbox
 
The development of social media and the internet is one thing that I believe makes relocation a thousand times easier now than when we first moved here. Join the right forums on Facebook and you have an immediate tribe of people willing to share information; follow the right accounts on Instagram and you know all the cool places to go; use your smartphone maps and access Rejseplanen and never get lost; use translate tools to read any complex Danish –  all this quickly solves all the things that took me months to discover and work out. But I don’t know if that is better. I loved the exploration of the unknown, even the second day we lived here and we walked all the way from Frederiksberg to Vesterbro searching for a shop that sold light bulbs. We didn't find one but we discovered a lot about our area and had a fun afternoon. 
 
Pony is just one of the many restaurants to find on Vesterbrogade. Photo: Marie Louise Munkegaard/Copenhagen Medic Collection
Pony is just one of the many restaurants to find on Vesterbrogade. Photo: Marie Louise Munkegaard/Copenhagen Media Center
 
Today much of the restaurant scene in the city is centred on Vesterbrogade – you can practically find a restaurant to fit any taste there now. Rewind to a very cold December evening in 2007 the scene was very different. My husband and I were staying in a hotel in Sydhavnen for a pre-relocation exploration weekend. We headed into the city for dinner and decided that Vesterbrogade was the street to go to (clearly we had a premonition of the future). We walked from the main station all the way to Værnedamsvej and only encountered Chinese restaurants and felt that having a Chinese meal in Copenhagen on our first visit didn't seem right. Finally with growling stomachs and frozen extremities we had a pizza in a now long gone Italian restaurant on Værnedamsvej. The next night we ate reindeer at the hotel!
 
Even back in 2008 internet grocery delivery shopping was the norm in the UK. But upon arriving in Copenhagen, the question of how to get my bulky weekly shopping back from the supermarket without a car or a delivery man was vexing. Enter my cow print granny trolley bought from an website for €60. For over a year I wheeled this thing to my local Kvickly on a Monday afternoon, parked it by the tills (in the honest world of Denmark I knew no one would steal it), perfected the art of efficiently packing it, pulled it back home with stinging palms, dragged it up four flights of stairs and unpacked my shopping. Then Superbest started home delivery and my life changed immeasurably.
 
Kødbyen. Photo: Claus Randrup/Copenhagen Media Center
Kødbyen. Photo: Claus Randrup/Copenhagen Media Center
 
Vesterbro is now the watchword in cool. Defined today as one of the most hip of hipster neighbourhoods in the world, this was a completely different story only eight years ago. I had younger friends in language class who were partying in Kødbyen’s new underground clubs in what was still an area dominated by prostitution and hard drugs. They often come out to find their bikes stolen and certainly watched their backs when heading home in the small hours.  It wasn't unusual to see drug users opening shooting up in doorways in broad daylight. 
 
We were shown an apartment to rent just off Halmtorvet in 2008 and our relocation agent told us that the area was not so good right then but would be the place to be in a few years. We looked at the graffiti and suspicious characters shuffling around outside and decided to take his word for it. It seems he was right. I have mixed views on hipster culture but thanks to innovations such as the fixing room in Vesterbro and a change of vibe in this area, it is certainly somewhere I now enjoy spending time.
 
Torvehallerne
Torvehallerne. Photo: Robin Skjoldborg/VisitDenmark
 
These are just a fraction of the changes I have seen. Others include the transformation of Ørestad from a few new buildings, a shopping mall and a wind turbine to a whole new district. Likewise, a handful of fruit and veg stalls on Israel Plads turned into the bustling Torvehallerne.
 
I have also seen a change in myself over those years and a subtle move to more Danish behaviour — a little more forthright; sitting in the outside seat of the bus until I absolutely have to move over and happily using single duvets.
 
Melanie Haynes is originally from the UK and has lived in Copenhagen for seven years. She writes about life in Denmark on her blog Dejlige Days
 

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.

EXPAT

Ten surprising things that happened to me after moving to Denmark

Relocation expert Melanie Haynes shares ten things she wasn’t prepared for when she joined the Danes.

Ten surprising things that happened to me after moving to Denmark
A shameless approach to public nudity caught the author off-guard. Photo: CandyBox Images/Iris
Moving to Denmark is a great experience but there are some things that catch most expats out at some point. So here are ten of the things that have surprised me most in my first few years here.
 
1. I had a hard time mastering the local lingo
 
Remember that episode of ‘Friends’ when Joey thinks he is speaking French? That will most probably be you at the start of learning a new language. You hear what your teacher says, repeat it exactly how you think it sounds but she still looks at you with a complete lack of comprehension. Eventually it gets better, and you might even be ‘complimented’ by being told that you sound like a peasant or a Norwegian (even though you are neither).
 
2. I learned that not everything is as it seems
 
Careful what you pour in there! Photo: dimakp/Iris
Careful what you pour in there! Photo: dimakp/Iris
 
Things at the supermarket look like they should until you get home, ready for a hot drink and find yoghurt plopping into your well deserved caffeine injection. Yep, Europeans love yoghurt and it comes in litre cartons, just like their milk, so be vigilant.
 
3. I found out suppositories are a thing
 
You're putting my medicine WHERE?!? Photo: erllre/Iris
You're putting my medicine WHERE?!? Photo: erllre/Iris
 
Babies are not given oral medication. Yes, that means paracetamol for your baby (and up to the age of two) needs to be administered at the other end. My shock at this was not understood by my doctor.
 
4. I got hooked on salty food

Pass the salt, please! Photo: Sebastian/Iris
 
When I first moved to Denmark I found the food excessively salty. Now I immediately reach for the salt on the table when in the UK as I moan about the lack of seasoning.
 
5. I had to accept that nudity is no big deal
 
Danes have a relaxed attitude toward nudity. Photo: Dmitri Maruta/Iris
Danes have a relaxed attitude toward nudity. Photo: Dmitri Maruta/Iris
 
Changing in a Danish swimming pool can be an awkward experience for people from more conservative countries as there are rarely many or any private changing areas and the changing rooms are full of naked women (or men) wandering around, showering and enjoying a sauna. Eyes down is the best policy if you are shy and remember no one is looking at anyone else – we all have the same bits. And try not to be bothered by the mums who look like super models in bikinis at the baby swim classes.
 
6. I discovered that doing laundry can be an eye-opening experience
 
Shared laundry rooms can tell you more about your neighbour than you'd care to know. Photo: Brenda Carson/Iris
Shared laundry rooms can tell you more about your neighbour than you'd care to know. Photo: Brenda Carson/Iris
 
In some old apartment buildings in Northern Europe you have a communal laundry room with drying lines. You’ll never look your staid neighbour in the face again after seeing her sexy undies on the line.
 
7. I have no shame when it comes to getting what I want
 
You may have to occasionally go to extreme lengths to get your point across. Photo: zoryanchik/Iris
You may have to occasionally go to extreme lengths to get your point across. Photo: zoryanchik/Iris
 
I mimed being a duck (with added quacking) at a Berlin department store butcher’s counter when they couldn’t understand me when I was out shopping for our Christmas dinner. The assistant didn’t even crack a smile but showed me where they were. Luckily here in Denmark this is less of an issue.
 
8. I learned to prepare early
 
Want champagne for New Year's Eve? Best to be safe and buy it in early December. Photo: tiero/Iris
 
Shops selling champagne will be closed by 4pm on New Year’s Eve and those that are open will be sold out. But you will still be able to buy fireworks to fire off on the streets, willy nilly. Before any public holiday make sure you have what you need as many shops will be closed.
 
9. I found the search for everyday things to be harder than expected
 
I just want one of these – how hard can it be??? Photo: Pabkov/Iris
 
The search for an everyday item like a drying rack can become a mission of epic proportions with people in shops looking at the picture of what you want as if you are looking for a mythical creature. Two weeks later you haemorrhage a huge amount of money for one in the best department store in Europe as it’s the only place you find one.
 
10. I learned to be wary of the Danish love of liquorice
 
Danes not only eat liquorice by the handful, they also sneak it into everything from ice cream to beer. Photo: cyclonebill/Flickr
 
Ice cream that looks like Oreo cookies? Nope, that’s liquorice. Ice lollies that are called Kung Fu that look fun? Again liquorice. Learn the word lakrids before any other when moving to Denmark to avoid inelegantly spitting out something you hoped would be lovely or having wailing children with mouths on fire.
 
Melanie HaynesMelanie Haynes is originally from the UK and has lived in Copenhagen for eight years. She writes about life in Copenhagen on her blog Dejlige Days and after experiencing relocation to Copenhagen and Berlin, she runs a settling-in service aimed at expats called Dejlige Days Welcome and works with Copenhagen Housing to offer an integrated settling-in and home search service. Her ebook, 'Dejlige Days: A Guide to Relocation', is available now.
SHOW COMMENTS